A Carver’s Trip to Pietrasanta: Part 2 2007

Ed: In this final episode of Michael and Michele’s trip to Pietrasanta, we will hear and see about his commission carvings and what it was like to live and work in Italy. Thanks, Michael, for sharing your story.

I was a bit of an odd ball at the studio. Most tourist sculptors who travel to Pietrasanta are on vacation, wanting to enjoy the town as much as the studio. I was there to work on my commissions, and had no intentions of messing around. There were five artisani that were employed at Studio SEM, and they worked a solid day. There were three independent sculptors that rented space for their work, and these were fairly consistent in working a full day. Then there were the tourist sculptors, four of us in April, and they worked a few hours each day, save for yours truly. The other professionals mistook me for the run-of-the-mill vacationer, and were soon surprised at my attendance and work ethic.

Italy being the marble-carving center of the world, I was surprised that I was able to introduce some things to the artisani at Studio SEM. As Europe is on 220 power, I had to purchase a 5” (or near equivalent) angle grinder and diamond blade – the only tools I did not bring. Looks of amusement that greeted me at the studio from the artisani as I approached my 6-foot tall block of marble with the wee machine were erased at day’s end when I was ankle deep in fretted chips. Leonardo passed by and asked “All you?” gesturing to the debris.

Water is not used in Italy for carving. It is a precious commodity, so all grinding is done dry and therefore all studios have massive dust extractors which work extremely well. Nonetheless, they do not like to use diamond abrasives much, simply because they cause so much dust. They were not familiar with Trow & Holden hammers and chisels, and were impressed at how fast a 1” T&H hammer will rip marble. After a few days of work, I felt a tap on my shoulder… “I try?” asked Simone. After a few minutes carving my sculpture, he returned the tools to my hand and nodded his approval.

Italians do business very differently than North Americans. Be ready to gear down, and don’t expect deadlines to be kept. I had asked in January that marble for all four of my projects to be ready for me upon my arrival. My plan was to at least tell my patrons that I had begun each of their sculptures in Italy. I was lucky to have one block of marble waiting for me. A second block I was able to get from another studio. The last two, and largest stones were finally found on our last day in Italy, after a month of frustration. I was baffled that we were surrounded by billions of tons of beautiful white marble, but Keara could not find two measly pieces for me? I discovered late in the month that she was looking for off cuts for me to save on my costs. Yes, in Italy, they have 3 and 6 ton off cuts – and frankly, the savings was worth the wait.

We secured a lovely apartment about a 10-minute walk from the studio. Giampaolo Vitali has a small palazzo that has been in his family for ages, and he has renovated it into 6 units. We chose the Puccini on the top of the three-floor walk-up. It was a perfect choice, as it afforded us views out over the neighborhood rooftops, as well as freedom from overhead footsteps. The apartment had a well-appointed kitchen, quaint living/dining room, bedroom with safe, en-suite laundry and a clean bathroom. The only drawback was a less than exuberant showerhead, but that is normal for Italy. You can visit www.pietrasantaresort.com to see his website. We highly recommend these simple and clean accommodations.

I was pleasantly surprised that food is comparable in price to Vancouver, and since most produce is grown in the country, the quality is outstanding. There is fast food in Pietrasanta – but it’s not drive through. You quickly gather your ingredients on your way home at the corner grocer, and can make a fresh meal in your kitchen in 5 – 10 minutes. It’s good quality, fresh food – not much processed or frozen. We stocked up on sundries at the large supermarket outside the old town once a week, and filled in the fresh needs on a daily basis at the local grocers.

April began rather cool, so we were happy to pay the extra euros on heat for the first two weeks. But after Easter, the temperatures rose to a proper warm spring, and we were able to turn off the thermostat.

During the day, Michelle would read in the apartment garden, or explore the surrounding countryside. The beauty of the area is much like the rest of Europe – small towns situated within walking distance of each other. Versilia is no different, with lots to see by foot, or by bus – Seravezza, Capriglia, Monteggiori… On weekends, Michelle had planned excursions. We traveled to Lucca and Pisa, spent Easter weekend in Florence, and finally the Cinque Terre for four days. We made a day trip to the quarries above Carrara, visiting the towns of La Colonnata and Bedizzano – very thrilling.

It was a wonderful adventure, and like most others who have gone before, I do want to return again. I was able to get a lot of work done on my commissions and started a few “just for the heck of it” pieces. If you have not been, and can afford the opportunity, I would highly recommend it.